Beach Excursions from Athens

Beach Excursions from Athens

There's little that compares with the feeling of diving off the rocks into pristine waters at some secluded cove -- or dancing until daybreak by the water at one of Greece's trendy beachfront clubs. Even driving up Mt. Parnassus slopes or hiking down Mt. Parnitha, the shore is rarely more than an hour away, so make sure to include time for a swim in your itinerary. Attica's paying beaches have everything from showers and changing cabins to restaurants, bars, water-sports rentals, and water parks. Often there's at least a taverna on the beach, so you can sip ouzo and pick at a meze while the kids splash around just steps away. Varkiza's broad sandy bay and Vouliagmeni's sheltered waters are the place to head for a cooling dip after a morning of sightseeing or shopping.

Glyfada

A palm-fringed coastal promenade, parks, beautiful villas, golf courses, shopping, and seaside dining have always made Glyfada a popular destination for both young and old. Since the relocation of the former international airport from here to Spata, it's much quieter and less touristy. Athenians come to swim, stroll, and spend quiet moments gazing at the sea. A tram link to downtown Athens and Piraeus (change at Neo Faliro) has eased traffic. On summer weekends trams operate through the night to serve clubbers who come to enjoy the nightlife that has moved here from Athens to escape the heat. Glyfada has several fine hotels and, with Athens city center just a tram ride away, makes a good base for travelers who like being near the beach.

Glyfada hosts a summer concert festival with Greek and ethnic music and theater performances at the carved-marble open-air theater Aixoni in August and September. Program and ticket information can be obtained from the Glyfada town hall. Aixoni, Hydras 11. 210/891-2330

Beaches

Attica's southwestern coast is mainly rock, with some short, sandy stretches in Glyfada and Voula that have been made into public pay beaches. Along with snack bars, changing rooms, beach umbrellas, and rental water-sport equipment for windsurfing and waterskiing, there are gardens, parking, and playgrounds. These beaches have received Blue Flags for cleanliness from the European Union despite their proximity to Athens. Most are open from 8 AM to 8 PM in summer, and entry fees are generally from EUR 4 to EUR 15. At some beaches, fees go up on weekends, and at others, you may have to pay extra for a lounge chair or parking. In July and August, when temperatures climb past 100°F (38°C), public beaches often stay open until midnight. Farther south or east along the coast, accessible by tram, there are open or free beaches from Flisvos up to Glyfada's Asteria.

The town of Alimos (10 km [6 mi] south of Athens, 5 km [3 mi] north of Glyfada. 210/981-3315) has the nearest developed beach to Athens. It has umbrellas and lounge chairs and is packed in summer.

Asteria Seaside (15 km [9 mi] south of Athens. 210/894-5676) in Glyfada really stands out. The sprawling, upmarket complex, built around a fine sand beach, has private bungalows and landscaped grounds shaded by elegant pergolas. Facilities include lounge chairs, umbrellas, pools, lockers, changing rooms, showers, trampolines, a playground, a self-service restaurant, three bars, and water sports. Keep going all day and night at the trendy Balux pool bar and club where you can sip cocktails, sway to the live music, or book a Pilates session.

Voula A (210/895-9632, 3 km (2 mi) south of Glyfada, Voula) is a favorite of the younger set (music is broadcast over the outdoor sound system). It has a wooden pavilion, beach bar, waterslides, and white-canvas umbrellas above comfortable wood lounge chairs. Voula B (210/895-9590, 2 km [1 mi] south of Glyfada, Voula) is managed by the same company as Voula A, but it's a quiet and green area, with a sandy shore and calm shallow waters that attract families and a slightly older crowd.

Where to Eat

Septem. Crisp white linens, colored crystal, and gleaming silverware seem slightly decadent set on tables along the sea's edge, but as part of a minimalist decor they compliment the gorgeous surrounds. Chef Jean-Yves Carattoni's light Mediterranean cuisine only adds to Septem's cachet as a haunt of Athen's beautiful people. Try green risotto with grilled octopus, or lobster tails seasoned with coriander and served on a tomato tart, with a glass of perfectly chilled white wine from the extensive list. Linger over dinner just long enough for things to heat up on the dance floor at Balux at the beach club next door. Vas. Georgiou II 58, next to Asteria Seaside beach. 210/894-1620. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov.-Apr. No lunch

Smaragdi. Established in 1908, this once-humble fish taverna was the favorite place of Athenian couples, in real life and in Greek movies. In recent years, it has spruced up its image -- and raised prices, accordingly -- but truth is you can't dine any closer to the water without getting your toes wet. Go around sunset and nibble on fried atherina, washed down with ouzo. Leoforos Karamanli 10, (an extension of Poseidonos), Voula. 210/965-7404. Reservations essential. DC, MC, V

Aioli. Dishes at this bistro are Mediterranean with a twist; for example, juicy slices of freshly cooked beet and small artichokes are accompanied by the restaurant's namesake, aioli, the classic French garlic mayonnaise. The menu is short, yet satisfies a range of tastes. Try the fresh pasta or fish of the day, which is grilled to a crust with coarsely grated salt and filled with pine nuts. If you're up for dessert, the caramelized apple is worth the few extra calories. Artemidos 9, near Pl. Esperidon. 210/894-0181. Reservations essential. DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 10 days in Aug. No lunch Sun.-Fri.

Theodoros & Eleni. Share a platter of steamed mussels covered in a thin feta sauce, deep-fried battered shrimp rolled in sesame seeds, or saganaki (any dish fried in a small pan with cheese) cubes while you wait for your fish -- perfectly grilled and served with the classic Greek olive-oil-and-lemon dressing on the side. Attentive service is part of the homeyness of this understated restaurant housed in a small, suburban villa with outdoor seating in the shaded garden. Kondili 8. 210/898-3140. Reservations essential. DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

George's Steak House. When all you really want is a burger, head to George's. The menu's limited to steaks (George learned how to carve a T-bone from a visiting American), fries, salads, and biftekia (thick, grilled, hamburger-like patties of ground beef and pork). The service is fast, so don't be disappointed if all the tables are taken when you arrive; there's a continuous stream of diners coming and going. Konstantinoupoleos 4. 210/894-6020. No credit cards

Nightlife

Glyfada is renowned as a summer party spot, since some of Athens's most popular clubs close up shop downtown and move here in summer. Places seem to change their name and style each season to keep up with trends; ask at your hotel for the latest information. Most clubs have a cover charge that includes a drink (EUR 10-EUR 25); if you're a large party, take a tip from the Greeks and share a bottle (whiskey, vodka) to save on the cost of ordering single drinks.

Balux (Vas. Georgiou II 58. 210/894-1062) is on the golden sands at Asteria Seaside beach, and is one of the hottest clubs -- a favorite of Greek celebrities. The music at Bebek (Leoforos Poseidonos 3, Voula. 210/981-3950) is mainstream, with occasional theme nights. Cubanita (Waterfront, Diadochou Pavlou. 210/898-3092), a bar-restaurant with resident DJ, is the place for clubbers who love a Latin beat. De Stijl (Leoforos Poseidonos 4, Voula. 210/895-2403) is always drawing a glamorous crowd; you do have to look the part to get in and enjoy those Greek dance hits. A huge and impressive club, Envy Seaside (Paralia Agiou Kosma, Hellenikon. 210/985-2994) throws sunset dance parties on Sunday. From Psyrri, its base in winter, Mao (Waterfront, Diadochou Pavlou. 210/894-1620) moves to a man-made beachfront "peninsula" for summer where hip clubbers sip drinks and dance around a lagoon.

Vouliagmeni

A classy seaside residential suburb, Vouliagmeni is the most prestigious address for an Athenian's summer home or business. It's coveted for the large yacht harbor and the scenic promontory, Laimos Vouliagmenis, which is covered with umbrella pines and includes an area called Kavouri, with several seaside fish tavernas. Much like Glyfada, Vouliagmeni can serve as a convenient base from which to explore Attica, but it is far less crowded.

Beaches

Here beaches are quieter, and even cleaner, than the beaches farther north toward Athens. The only free area beach is Kavouri (Western shore of Vouliagmeni headland), which extends south from Voula B to Vouliagmeni. The upscale beach on Laimos Vouliagmenis promontory, Asteras Beach (Apollonos 40. 210/890-2000), belongs to the hotel Astir Palace Vouliagmenis but is open to the public from 8:30 to 6:30. Its more exclusive location has always commanded a hefty fee, which means the green lawns and sandy stretch are usually not so crowded.

Akti Vouliagmenis (2 km [1 mi] west of Vouliagmeni. 210/896-0906) has elegant wooden lounge chairs, umbrellas, and shiny cabanas. Yabanaki (5 km [3 mi] east of Vouliagmeni, Varkiza. 210/897-2414) has beach-club amenities -- water sports, bars, restaurants, a children's water park, and cabins where you can take a nap -- spread across 25 acres. Varkiza's sandy beach park is open 8 to 7:30. The broad bay is popular with windsurfers.

The part salt, part spring-fed waters of the lake at Vouliagmeni (2 km [1 mi] southeast of town. 210/896-2237) are reputed to have curative powers, thus are popular with older Greeks. The lake is open 6:30 AM to 8 PM; facilities include lockers and showers, and there's a pleasant snack bar. Most of the lake has a gradual slope and sandy bottom (although caution is recommended, as it deepens suddenly in parts).

Where to Eat

Island. Claim a place at the bar and observe the fashionable exchange air kisses while casting an eye around to see who's watching. People come in waves: some early for drinks, some late for dancing, and some flowing from the bar to the restaurant to the disco in this complex. Palm trees, bamboo, flowering shrubs, and staggered terraces create an elegant and slightly exotic backdrop for one of the city's hottest summer hangouts. The restaurant's imaginative Mediterranean cuisine, using ingredients such as saffron and feta, comes at a price, but you can sample some of these flavors at the bar for less. On Athens-Sounion coastal road, 3 km (2 mi) southeast of Vouliagmeni, Varkiza. 210/965-3563. Reservations essential. V

Apaggio. High-quality, traditional Greek seafood, with a view of the Saronic Gulf -- what could be better? The menu is always changing. If you're lucky you may find dishes such as sinagrida (snapper) made Rhodes-style (with white sauce and mushrooms); codfish croquettes, a specialty of Andros; seafood saganaki (a dish cooked in a small pan with cheese, tomato, and peppers) crammed with mussels, shrimp, and crayfish; or a fried mix of squid and other shellfish. More than 70 Greek labels show up on the wine list. You're also welcome to stop just for an ouzo or coffee from noon until late. On coastal road to Sounion, 17 km (10 1/2 mi) south of Vouliagmeni, at 41-km (25 1/2-mi) mark, Lagonissi. 22910/26261. AE, DC, V. Closed weekdays Oct.-Apr.

Garbi. Athenians flock year-round to share a seafood platter and bottle of white wine or feast on kakavia, the Greek fisherman's version of bouillabaisse. There's meat on the menu, but most opt for the fresh grilled fish and a selection of appetizers with subtle influences from the cuisine of Istanbul Greeks. But it's not just the food that attracts locals to this family-run restaurant: there are also elegant wood-beam ceilings and a superb view of the coast, all just 30 minutes from downtown Athens. Reservations essential weekends. 3 km (2 mi) west of Vouliagmeni, Liou 21, Kavouri. 210/896-3480. DC, MC, V

I Remvi. The last of the fish tavernas lining the coastal road in Palaia Fokaia, this is the smallest, the cheapest, and the most romantic. Remvi means "daydreaming," easy to do as you sit at little tables with checkered tablecloths sipping potent barreled wine and gazing out to sea. The family-run place keeps expanding its delicious menu -- the fish soup, made with the freshest bream, sweet onions, carrots, and potatoes, is worth the wait. Seafood appetizers like crab salad and fried calamari are a good lead-in to the superbly fresh fish, served by the kilo. On Athens-Sounion coastal road, 34 km (21 mi) south of Vouliagmeni, Palaia Fokaia. 22910/36236. V

Getting There

The beach towns close to Athens can be reached with the blue city bus lines (EUR 0.45): Bus A2, A3, or B3 from Platia Syntagma for Glyfada; Bus A2 to Voula; Bus A2 to Glyfada, then connect with Bus 114, 115, or 116 to Vouliagmeni; Bus A2 or A3 to Glyfada, then connect with Bus 115, 116, or 149 for Varkiza.