The Romantic Road
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1. Residenz und Hofgarten Würzburg
Würzburg's prince-bishops lived in this glorious baroque palace after moving down from the hilltop Festung Marienberg. Construction started in 1719 under the brilliant direction of Balthasar Neumann. Most of the interior decoration was entrusted to the Italian stuccoist Antonio Bossi and the Venetian painter Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. It's the spirit of the pleasure-loving Prince-Bishop Johann Philipp Franz von Schönborn, however, that infuses the Residenz. Now considered one of Europe's most sumptuous palaces, this dazzling structure is a 10-minute walk from the train station, along pedestrian-only Kaiserstrasse and then Theaterstrasse. Tours start in the Vestibule, which was built to accommodate carriages drawn by six horses. The king's guests were swept directly up the Treppenhaus, the largest baroque staircase in the country. Halfway up, the stairway splits and peels away 180 degrees to the left and to the right. Soaring above on the vaulting is Tiepolo's giant fresco The Four Continents, a gorgeous exercise in blue and pink that's larger than the Sistine Chapel's ceiling. Each quarter of the massive fresco depicts the European outlook on the world in 1750—the savage Americas; Africa and its many unusual creatures; cultured Asia, where learning and knowledge originated; and finally the perfection of Europe, with Würzburg as the center of the universe. Take a careful look at the Asian elephant's trunk and find the ostrich in Africa. Tiepolo had never seen these creatures but painted on reports of them; he could only assume that the fastest and largest bird in the world would have big muscular legs. He immortalized himself and Balthasar Neumann as two of the figures—they're not too difficult to spot. Next, make your way to the Weissersaal (White Room) and then beyond to the grandest of the state rooms, the Kaisersaal (Throne Room). Tiepolo's frescoes show the 12th-century visit of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, when he came to Würzburg to claim his bride. If you take part in the guided tour, you'll also see private chambers of the various former residents (guided tours in English are given daily at 11 and 3). The Spiegelkabinett (Mirror Cabinet) was completely destroyed by Allied bombing but then reconstructed using the techniques of the original rococo artisans. Finally, visit the expansive formal Hofgarten (Court Gardens), to see its stately gushing fountains and trim ankle-high shrubs that outline geometric flowerbeds and gravel walks. On weekends, the Hofkeller wine cellar, below the Residenz, runs tours that include wine tasting. Ask at the ticket counter.
Residenzpl. 2, Würzburg, Bavaria, 97070, Germany0931-355–170Sight Details
Rate Includes: €9; gardens free -
2. Alte Mainbrücke
A stone bridge—Germany's first—built in 1120 once stood on this site, over the Main River, but that ancient structure was replaced beginning in 1476. Twin rows of graceful statues of saints now line the bridge, placed here in 1730, at the height of Würzburg's baroque period. They were largely destroyed in 1945, but have been lovingly restored since then. Note the Patronna Franconiae (commonly known as the Weeping Madonna). There's a beautiful view of the Marienberg Fortress from the bridge.
Würzburg, Bavaria, Germany -
3. Dom St. Kilian
Construction on Würzburg's Romanesque cathedral, the fourth-largest of its kind in Germany, began in 1045. Centuries of design are contained under one roof; the side wings were designed in a late-Gothic style in the 16th century, followed by extensive baroque stuccowork 200 years later. The majority of the building collapsed in the winter following the bombing of the city near the end of World War II. Reconstruction, completed in 1967, brought a combination of modern design influences alongside a faithful restoration of the past thousand years of the church's history. Visit the side chapel designed by the baroque architect Balthasar Neumann, and a series of tombs of the bishops of Würzburg, designed by Tilman Riemenschneider. Tours (in German only) are offered daily at 12:30 from mid-April through October.
Domerpfarrg. 10, Würzburg, Bavaria, 97070, Germany0931-3866–2900Sight Details
Rate Includes: Church free; tours € 5 per person -
4. Festung Marienberg
Visible from just about anywhere in town, this hilltop complex was the original home of the prince-bishops, beginning in the 13th century. The oldest buildings, including the Marienkirche (Church of the Virgin Mary) date from around AD 700, although excavations have disclosed evidence there was a settlement here in the Iron Age, approximately 1200 BC. In addition to the rough-hewn medieval fortifications, there are a number of Renaissance and baroque apartments. Tours in English, normally held on weekends, meet at the Museum Shop. To reach the Marienberg, make the fairly steep climb on foot through vineyards or take Bus 9, starting at the Residenz, with several stops in the city. It runs about every 40 minutes from April to October. The fortress is undergoing renovations through 2030, with a rolling schedule of closed sections. The fortress also houses two additional museums.
Residenzplatz 2, Würzburg, Bavaria, 97070, Germany0931-335–750Sight Details
Rate Includes: Tours €4, Closed Mon. and Oct.–mid-Mar. -
5. Fürstenbaumuseum
The Marienberg collections are so vast that they spill over into a separate outstanding museum that's part of the fortress but operated privately and, thus, has a separate admission fee. The Franconia Museum of Art and Culture traces 1,200 years of Würzburg's history. The holdings include breathtaking exhibits of local goldsmiths' art.
Oberer Burgweg, Würzburg, Bavaria, 97082, GermanySight Details
Rate Includes: €5, Closed Mon. -
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6. Museum für Franken
A highlight of any visit to Festung Marienberg is likely to be this remarkable collection of art treasures. Be sure to visit the gallery devoted to Würzburg-born sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider (1460–1531). Also on view are paintings by Tiepolo and Cranach the Elder, as well as porcelain, firearms, antique toys, and ancient Greek and Roman art. Other exhibits showcase enormous old winepresses and narrate the history of Franconian wine making.
Oberer Burgweg, Würzburg, Bavaria, 97082, Germany0931-205–940Sight Details
Rate Includes: €5, Closed Mon. -
7. Schloss Veitshöchheim
The first summer palace of the prince-bishops is 8 km (5 miles) north of Würzburg. Enlarged and renovated by Balthasar Neumann in 1753, the castle became a summer residence of the Bavarian kings in 1814. You reach the castle by walking down a long allée of trees on the extensive grounds. To your right are the "formal" rococo gardens, planned and laid out at the beginning of the 18th century. On the other side of the castle are the "utility" gardens, cared for by the Bavarian State College for Wines and Gardens. The college was founded here in 1902 as the Royal School for Gardening and Wine Culture. Walls, pavilions, a small lake teeming with fish, and gardens laden with fruit complete the picture of this huge park. From April to October fountains come to life every hour on the hour from 1 to 5. Inside the palace are the rooms of the Bavarian royal family, which can only be visited on the 30-minute guided tour, with a tour in German each hour. A bus service runs from Würzburg's Kirchplatz to the palace. From mid-April to mid-October there is also a boat operating between Würzburg and the palace (daily 10–4). The 40-minute trip costs €13 round-trip.
Echterstr. 10, Veitshöchheim, Bavaria, 97209, Germany0931-91582Sight Details
Rate Includes: €5, including tour; gardens €2, Closed Mon. and mid-Oct.–Mar.
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