The Rhineland: Places to Explore

Wiesbaden

Wiesbaden, the capital of the state of Hesse, is a small city of tree-lined avenues with elegant shops and handsome facades. Its hot mineral springs have been a drawing card since the days when it was known as Aquis Mattiacis ("the waters of the Mattiaci")—the words boldly inscribed on the portal of the Kurhaus—and Wisibada ("the bath in the meadow"). Bilingual walking tours of Wiesbaden depart from the Kurhaus, April-October, Saturday at 10 (November-March, the second and fourth Saturday).

In the 1st century AD the Romans built thermal baths here, a site then inhabited by a Germanic tribe, the Mattiaci. Modern Wiesbaden dates from the 19th century, when the dukes of Nassau and, later, the Prussian aristocracy commissioned the grand public buildings and parks that shape the city's profile today. Wiesbaden developed into a fashionable spa that attracted the rich and the famous. Their ornate villas on the Neroberg and turn-of-the-20th-century town houses are part of the city's flair.

For a one-hour ride through the city, board the little train THermine. The one-day ticket (€6.50) enables you to get on and off as often as you'd like to explore the sights. From mid-April to October it departs seven times daily (10-4:30) from Café Lumen (behind the Marktkirche) and stops at the Bowling Green, Greek Chapel, and Neroberg railway station. In winter, it operates only on weekends.

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