For a good look at the central Rheingau, make a brief circular tour from Eltville. Drive 3 km (2 mi) north via the Kiedricher Strasse to the Gothic village of Kiedrich. In the distance you can see the tower of Scharfenstein Castle (built in 1215) and the spires of St. Valentine's Basilica and St. Michael's Chapel, both from the 15th century. The latter, once a charnel house (a building near a cemetery used for storing dug-up bones), has a unique chandelier sculpted around
a nearly life-size, two-sided Madonna. These Gothic gems have survived intact thanks to 19th-century restorations sponsored by the English baronet John Sutton.
Weingut Robert Weil. Built by the English aristocrat John Sutton, this beautiful villa south of St. Valentine's Church is home to one of Germany's leading wine estates, Weingut Robert Weil. Its famed Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling wines can be sampled in the tasting room. Mühlberg 5, Kiedrich, 65399. 06123/2308. www.weingut-robert-weil.com. Weekdays 8–5:30, Sat. 10–5, Sun. 11–5.