The Pfalz and Rhine Terrace
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1. Burg Trifels
Burg Trifels is on the highest of three sandstone bluffs overlooking Annweiler, 15 km (9 miles) northwest of Gleiszellen. Celts, Romans, and Salians all had settlements on this site, but it was under the Hohenstaufen emperors (12th and 13th centuries) that Trifels was built on a grand scale. It housed the crown jewels from 1125 to 1274 (replicas are on display today). It was also an imperial prison, perhaps where Richard the Lion-Hearted was held captive in 1193–94. Although it was never conquered, the fortress was severely damaged by lightning in 1602. Reconstruction began in 1938, shaped by visions of grandeur to create a national shrine to the imperial past. The monumental proportions of some parts of today's castle bear no resemblance to those of the original Romanesque structure. The imperial hall is a grand setting for summer concerts. On foot: From Annweiler, follow the local signs for Burg Trifels. The hike is about an hour. By car: Follow the A-65 in the direction of Karl-Ludwigshafen, take exit Landau-Süd, then B-10 to Annweiler west. From there follow the local signs. Parking is at the foot of the fortress, a 20-minute walk from the top.
Burg Trifels- 06346 - 8470Sight Details
Rate Includes: €4.50, Closed Dec. and Jan. Closed weekdays Feb.–mid-Mar. and Nov. Closed Mon. mid-Mar.–Oct. -
2. Dom
This cathedral's interior is a virtual sculpture gallery of elaborate monuments and tombstones of archbishops, bishops, and canons, many of which are significant artworks in their own right. Emperor Otto II began building the oldest of the Rhineland's trio of grand Romanesque cathedrals in 975, the year in which he named Willigis archbishop and chancellor of the empire. Henry II, the last Saxon emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, was crowned here in 1002, as was his successor, Konrad II, the first Salian emperor, in 1024. In 1009, on the very day of its consecration, the cathedral burned to the ground. It was the first of seven fires the Dom has endured. Today's cathedral dates mostly from the 11th to 13th century. During the Gothic period, remodeling diluted the Romanesque identity of the original; an imposing baroque spire was added in the 18th century. Nevertheless, the building remains essentially Romanesque, and its floor plan demonstrates a clear link to the cathedrals in Speyer and Worms. Individual and group tours can be arranged through the Tourist Service Center.
Domstr. 3, Mainz, Rheinland-Pfalz, 55116, Germany06131-253–412Sight Details
Rate Includes: Donations requested -
3. Jewish Quarter
Speyer was an important medieval Jewish cultural center. Behind the Palatinate Historical Museum is the Jewish quarter, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2021, where you'll find synagogue remains from 1104; Germany's oldest (circa 1126) ritual baths, the 33-foot-deep Mikwe; and the Museum SchPIRA, which displays objects such as gravestones and coins from the Middle Ages.
Kleine Pfaffeng. 21- 06232 - 291–971 - Museum SchPIRASight Details
Rate Includes: €3, Closed Sun. Nov.–Mar. -
4. Kaiserdom
The Kaiserdom, one of the finest Romanesque cathedrals in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, conveys the pomp and majesty of the early Holy Roman emperors. It was built between 1030 and 1061 by the emperors Konrad II, Henry III, and Henry IV. The last replaced the flat ceiling with groin vaults in the late 11th century, an innovative feat in its day. A restoration program in the 1950s returned the building to almost exactly its original condition. The four towers symbolize the four seasons and the idea that the power of the empire extends in all four directions. Look up as you enter the nearly 100-foot-high portal; it's richly carved with mythical creatures. In contrast to Gothic cathedrals, whose walls are supported externally by flying buttresses, allowing for a minimum of masonry and a maximum of light, at Speyer the columns supporting the roof are massive. You can climb the 304 steps of the southwest tower (access Apr.–Oct.) to reach the viewing platform, from where there is a splendid panorama. Another highlight is the Krypta which lies beneath the chancel. It's the largest crypt in Germany and is strikingly beautiful in its simplicity. Four emperors, four kings, and three empresses are buried here.
Edith-Stein-Pl. 4- 06232 - 102–120Sight Details
Rate Includes: Crypt €3.80; audio guide €8.50; tower €6; combined ticket for access to crypt, tower and audio guide €12 -
5. Oppenheimer Kellerlabyrinth
Beneath Oppenheim's surface, there are five layers of cellars, tunnels, and stairways. Thought to have been built in the 14th century, their purpose remains unknown. Of the 40 km (24 miles) of complex underground passageways, today ¾ km (½ mile) is open to the public; contact the Oppenheim tourist office to arrange a tour.
Merianstr. 2a, Oppenheim, Rheinland-Pfalz, 55276, Germany06133-490–919-Oppenheim TourismusSight Details
Rate Includes: Tour €8 -
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6. Schloss Villa Ludwigshöhe
Bavaria's King Ludwig I's Italian-style villa sits on the slopes overlooking Edenkoben and Rhodt unter Rietburg. The house is now used as a space for art exhibitions and musical events: the former dining room is used for classical concerts; the cellars house exhibitions of 20th-century ceramics; and an extensive collection of paintings and prints by the leading German impressionist Max Slevogt (1868–1932) is also on display. Hourly tours are included in the admission fee. Schloss Villa Ludwigshöhe is reachable by car, bus, or foot; the No. 506 Palatina bus goes directly from Edenkoben on Sunday and holidays. If you opt to walk, the Weinlehrpfad (educational trailpath) takes about 45 minutes. Historical winepresses and vintners' tools are displayed at intervals along the path, which starts at the corner of Landauer Strasse and Villa Strasse in Edenkoben. Due to major renovations the house is closed to the public until 2023.
Villastr. 64- 06323 - 93016Sight Details
Rate Includes: €6, Closed Dec.–mid-Mar. Closed Mon. mid-Mar.–Oct. Closed weekdays in Nov. -
7. St. Stephanskirche
It's just a short walk up Gaustrasse from Schillerplatz to the church, which affords a hilltop view of the city. Nearly 200,000 people make the trip each year to see the nine magnificent blue stained-glass windows designed by the Russian-born artist Marc Chagall.
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8. Stiftung Kunsthaus Heylshof in Worms
Located in the Heylshofgarten, this is one of the leading art museums of the region. It has an exquisite collection of German, Dutch, and French paintings as well as stained glass, glassware, porcelain, and ceramics dating from the 15th to the 19th century.
Stephansg. 9- 06241 - 22000Sight Details
Rate Includes: €5, Closed Jan. and Feb. Closed Mon. Mar.–Dec. -
9. Technik Museum
Built on the site of a former aircraft works just outside the city center (about a 10-minute walk from the Kaiserdom), the Technik Museum houses 300 exhibits including space suits, a landing capsule, and an original Russian BURAN space shuttle as part of Europe's largest aerospace exhibition. In addition, there are walk-in exhibits including a Boeing 747 and a 46-meter-long U9 submarine; and there's also a collection of vintage cars, ships, locomotives, and motorcycles. While you're here, don't miss one of the world's biggest collections of mechanical musical instruments at the Wilhelmsbau Museum (entry included in ticket price) or a movie on the curved screen of the IMAX DOME theater. Allow at least three hours to visit this extensive museum, which covers several large buildings.
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10. Wormser Dom St. Peter
In contrast to Speyer's Romanesque cathedral, the Worms Cathedral of St. Peter is much more Gothic. In part this is simply a matter of chronology, since Speyer Cathedral was finished in 1061, nearly 70 years before the one in Worms was even begun—and long before the lighter, more vertical lines of the Gothic style evolved. In addition, Speyer Cathedral was left largely untouched, but the Worms Cathedral underwent frequent remodeling. The Gothic influence here can be seen both inside and out, from the elaborate tympanum with biblical scenes over the southern portal (today's entrance) to the great rose window in the west choir and the five sculptures in the north aisle recounting the life of Christ. The cathedral was gutted by fire in 1689 in the War of the Palatinate Succession. For this reason, many of the furnishings are baroque, including the magnificent gilt high altar from 1742, designed by the master architect Balthasar Neumann (1687–1753). The choir stalls are no less decorative. They were built between 1755 and 1759 in rococo style. Walk around the building to see the artistic detail of the exterior.
Andreasstr.- 06241 - 6115Sight Details
Rate Includes: Donation requested -
11. Alter Kastanienhof
For a delicious rendition of the regional specialty Saumagen (meat, herbs and potatoes cooked in a sow's stomach), stop here. The restaurant has a charming interior courtyard and sunny south-facing terrace, and the staff make knowledgeable recommendations from the small but excellent list of local wines.
Theresienstr. 79, Rhodt unter Rietburg, Rheinland-Pfalz, 76835, Germany06323-988--1300Sight Details
Rate Includes: Wednesday and Thursday -
12. Altpörtel
Ascend the Altpörtel, the impressive town gate, for a grand view of Maximilianstrasse, the now busy shopping street that once led kings and emperors straight to the cathedral.
Postpl.Sight Details
Rate Includes: €3, Closed Nov.–Mar. -
13. Church of St. Ulrich
A Gothic gem inside and out, this is the only 15th-century church in the Palatinate region whose walls have been entirely preserved, though the interior has changed according to the style of the times. Despite having been looted during the French Revolution and turned first into a wine warehouse and later a military prison, the basic exterior structure of the church hasn't been altered. The interior includes stained glass that dates from the Middle Ages and wooden figures from around 1500.
Marktpl., Deidesheim, Rheinland-Pfalz, 67146, Germany -
14. Consulat des Weines
Oenophiles won't want to miss this Vinothek in the charming village of St. Martin. It offers more than 80 varieties of wine from its vineyards in St. Martin and nearby Edenkoben (cash only). The sheer variety makes it easy to overindulge—good thing there's a hotel and restaurant on-site. There's a second location, also on Maikammerer Strasse near the St. Martiner Castell hotel (closed Sunday).
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15. Deutsches Weinbaumuseum
Oppenheim and its neighbors to the north, Nierstein and Nackenheim, are home to some of Rheinhessen's best-known vineyards. The Deutsches Weinbaumuseum has wine-related artifacts that chronicle the region's 2,000-year-old winemaking tradition, not to mention the world's largest collection of mousetraps and more than 2,000 corkscrews.
Wormser Str. 49, Oppenheim, Rheinland-Pfalz, 55276, Germany06133-2544Sight Details
Rate Includes: €4, Closed Nov.–Mar. Closed Mon. Apr.–Oct. -
16. Dom und Diözesanmuseum
From the Middle Ages until secularization in the early 19th century, the archbishops of Mainz, who numbered among the imperial electors, were extremely influential politicians and property owners. The wealth of religious art treasures they left behind can be viewed in the cathedral cloisters.
Domstr. 3, Mainz, Rheinland-Pfalz, 55116, Germany06131-253–344Sight Details
Rate Includes: €5, Closed Mon. -
17. Eisenbahn Museum
Thirty historic train engines and railway cars are on display at the Eisenbahn Museum behind the main train station. Take a ride through the Palatinate Forest on one of the museum's historic steam trains, the Kuckucksbähnel, which departs from Track 5 around 10:45 am on intermittent days between May and mid-October, and in December (check the website for the latest schedule). There are special seasonal trips during wine season and during the run-up to Christmas. It takes a little more than an hour to cover the 13-km (8-mile) stretch from Neustadt to Elmstein.
Neustadt Hauptbahnhof- 06321 - 30390Sight Details
Rate Includes: Museum €5; Kuckucksbähnel €16, Closed Mon. and Tues. and late-Dec.–Feb. -
18. Elwetrische-Brunnen
While in the Pfalz, keep your eyes peeled for the elusive Elwetritschen—mythical, birdlike creatures rumored to roam the forest and vineyards at night. Hunting the creatures is something of a local prank. Sculptor Gernot Rumpf has immortalized the Elwetrischen in a fountain (Brunnen) on Marstallplatz. Near the market square, search for the one that "escaped" from its misty home.
Marstallpl. -
19. Gutenberg Museum
Opposite the east end of the cathedral (closest to the Rhine) stands this fascinating museum, which is devoted to the history of writing, printing, and books. Exhibits include historical printing presses, incunabula (books printed in Europe before 1501), and medieval manuscripts with illuminated letters, as well as two precious 42-line Gutenberg bibles printed circa 1455. A replica workshop demonstrates how Gutenberg implemented his invention of movable type.
Liebfrauenpl. 5, Mainz, Rheinland-Pfalz, 55116, Germany06131-122–640Sight Details
Rate Includes: €5, Closed Mon. -
20. Hambacher Schloss
On the Wine Road, it's a brief drive to the Neustadt suburb of Hambach. The sturdy block of Hambacher Schloss is considered the cradle of German democracy. It was here, on May 27, 1832, that 30,000 patriots demonstrated for German unity, raising the German colors for the first time. Inside there are exhibits about the uprising and the history of the castle. The French destroyed the 11th-century imperial fortress in 1688. Reconstruction finally began after World War II, in neo-Gothic style, and the castle is now an impressive setting for theater and concerts. On a clear day, you can see the spire of Strasbourg Cathedral and the northern fringe of the Black Forest from the terrace restaurant. Audio guides are available. Due to major renovations some parts of the permanent exhibition may be closed to the public during 2022.
Hambacher Schloss- 06321 - 926–290Sight Details
Rate Includes: €5.50, Closed Mon.
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