There is little overly fancy at Cohen's. There doesn't need to be. Reviving the old Jewish central European tradition of good, healthy cooking combined with hospitality and good cheer seems to be the underlying principle. Dig into a few hearty latkes, a steaming plate of Chulend stew, or standard gefilte fish doused with excellent Golan wine from Israel. The kitchen is open from noon to 3 and 6 to 10:30 pm, later when patrons amd staff are in the mood to chatter until
the wee hours. Klezmer singers perform on some Friday evenings.