Side Trip: Ammersee

Side Trip: Ammersee

The Ammersee, or the Peasant Lake, is the country cousin of the better-known, more cosmopolitan Starnbergersee (the Prince Lake), and, accordingly, many Bavarians (and tourists, too) like it all the more. Munich cosmopolites of centuries past thought it too distant for an excursion, not to mention too rustic, so the shores remained relatively free of villas and parks. Though some upscale holiday homes claim some stretches of the eastern shore, the Ammersee still offers more open areas for bathing and boating than the larger lake to the east. Bicyclists circle the 19-km-long (12-mi-long) lake (it's nearly 6 km [4 mi across at its widest point) on a path that rarely loses sight of the water. Hikers can spread out the tour for two or three days, staying overnight in any of the comfortable inns along the way. Dinghy sailors and windsurfers zip across in minutes with the help of the Alpine winds that swoop down from the mountains. A ferry cruises the lake at regular intervals during summer, stopping at several piers. Board it at Herrsching.

Herrsching has a delightful promenade, part of which winds through the resort's park. The 100-year-old villa that sits so comfortably there seems as if it were built by Ludwig II; such is the romantic and fanciful mixture of medieval turrets and Renaissance-style facades. It was actually built for the artist Ludwig Scheuermann in the late 19th century and became a favorite meeting place for Munich and Bavarian artists. It's now a municipal cultural center and the scene of chamber-music concerts on some summer weekends.

The Benedictine monastery Andechs, one of southern Bavaria's most famous pilgrimage sites, lies 5 km (3 mi) south of Herrsching. You can reach it on Bus 951 from the S-bahn station (the bus also connects Ammersee and Starnbergersee). This extraordinary ensemble, surmounted by an octagonal tower and onion dome with a pointed helmet, has a busy history going back more than 1,000 years. The church, originally built in the 15th century, was entirely redone in baroque style in the early 18th century. The Heilige Kapelle contains the remains of the old treasure of the Benedictines in Andechs, including Charlemagne's "Victory Cross," and a monstrance containing the three sacred hosts brought back from the crusades by the original rulers of the area, the Counts of Diessen-Andechs. One of the attached chapels contains the remains of composer Carl Orff, and one of the buildings on the grounds has been refurbished as a concert stage for the performance of his works. The church was completely renovated in preparation for the 550th anniversary of the monastery in 2005. Crowds of pilgrims are drawn not only by the beauty of the hilltop monastery but also by the beer brewed here (600,000 liters [159,000 gallons annually). The monastery makes its own cheese as well, and it's an excellent accompaniment to the rich, almost black beer. You can enjoy both at large wooden tables in the monastery tavern or on the terrace outside. 08152/376-167. www.andechs.de. Daily 7-7

The little town of Diessen at the southwest corner of the lake has one of the most magnificent religious buildings of the whole region: the Augustine abbey church of St. Mary. No lesser figure than the great Munich architect Johann Michael Fischer designed this airy, early rococo structure. François Cuvillié the Elder, whose work can be seen all over Munich, did the sumptuous gilt-and-marble high altar. Visit in late afternoon, when the light falls sharply on its crisp gray, white, and gold facade, etching the pencil-like tower and spire against the darkening sky over the lake. Don't leave without at least peeping into neighboring St. Stephen's courtyard, its cloisters smothered in wild roses. But Diessen is not all church. It has attracted artists and craftspeople since the early 20th century. Among the most famous who made their home here was the composer Carl Orff, author of numerous works inspired by medieval material, including the famous Carmina Burana. His life and work -- notably the pedagogical Schulwerk instruments -- are exhibited in the Carl-Orff-Museum (Hofmark 3, Diessen. 08807/91981. Weekends 2-5).

Where to Stay & Eat

Ammersee Hotel. This very comfortable, modern resort hotel has views from an unrivaled position on the lakeside promenade. Rooms overlooking the lake are more expensive and in demand. The Artis restaurant ($-$$) has an international menu with an emphasis on fish. You can enjoy a spicy bouillabaisse or catfish from the Danube. Summerstr. 32, D-82211, Herrsching. 08152/96870; 08152/399-440 restaurant. 08152/5374. www.ammersee-hotel.de. 40 rooms. In-room: no a/c, dial-up. In-hotel: restaurant, gym, some pets allowed (fee). AE, DC, MC, V. Full breakfast

Hotel Garni Zur Post. Families feel particularly at home here, where children can amuse themselves at the playground and small deer park. Rooms are Bavarian country style, with solid-pine furnishings, and are clean and functional. A delicious breakfast buffet will prepare you for a long day of touring. Starnberger Str. 2, D-82346, Andechs. 08152/91820. 08152/2303. www.hotelzurpost-andechs.de. 17 rooms. In-room: no a/c, dial-up. In-hotel: some pets allowed (fee). MC. Continental breakfast