Swimming in Munich

Munich set itself a goal of making the Isar River drinkable by 2005, and nearly did it. Either way, the river is most definitely clean enough to wade in on a hot summer day. Hundreds of people sunbathe on the banks upriver from the Deutsches Museum and take the occasional dip. If you prefer stiller waters, you can try swimming outdoors in the Isar River at the Maria-Einsiedel public pool complex. However, because the water comes from the Alps, it's frigid even in summer. Warmer lakes near Munich are the Ammersee and the Starnbergersee.

There are also a number of public pools and spas in Munich if you just have to get in the water while you're here. Cosima Bad (Englschalkingerstr. and Cosimastr., Bogenhausen), has man-made waves. The Dantebad (Dantestr. 6, Gern) has a heated, outdoor Olympic-size pool; in summer the place is packed. They also have a pool available in winter, which is usually not too crowded and provides a nice respite in the frigid months. The Müllersches Volksbad (Rosenheimerstr. 1, Haidhausen. 089/2361-3434) is in a glorious art-nouveau building right on the Isar. The pool is small but functional. There is also a sauna and steam bath area (mixed, birthday suit required) that is fantastic for a chilly winter's afternoon. Tuesdays are reserved for women in the sauna section. The Nordbad (Schleissheimerstr. 142, Schwabing) has a small, pleasant sauna section. The Olympia-Schwimmhalle (Olympiapark, Schwabing) has not only an Olympic-size pool but also a sauna area with a "steam cavern" as an extra delight.