The sparsely decorated yet intimate dining room is white with touches of pale earth tones and two blackboards with food- or wine-related quotes. The focus is on the food. The contemporary German food packs a punch. A light broth is the perfect vehicle for a piquant sausage of Schwarzschein (a breed of pig native to Germany) and sweet rhubarb. Chef Thorsten Gillert creates an eight-piece menu around a theme. The themes are rarely as predictable as white asparagus. Instead,
a meal can revolve around an idea from a Sherlock Holmes novel. For each theme, there are 8 or 9 dishes. After the chef explains the menu personally to each table, diners choose their dishes. You may eat as many courses as you want and the price is determined by what you consume. The restaurant has a large and excellent wine cellar, which can accommodate anything the kitchen puts out. The restaurant is less expensive at lunch, when it is called Bude I. It also sells its homemade groceries, like marmalade and curry paste.