Just outside the upper city walls, this all-white urbanesque restaurant and wine bar, run by three food-and-design-savvy sisters, offers a reality check after the touristic, turreted streets of La Cité. The blackboard menu highlights experimental touches to classic dishes (like sautéed foie gras in a Thai broth) and helps attract a sophisticated, casual clientele. If returning to the crowds leaves you feeling claustrophobic, consider one of the five loft-style guest
rooms in the upstairs inn—each with enough space for a full-on yoga practice. Also ask about sister Delphine's B&B not far away.