Set in its own park, this elegant estate northwest of Béziers has two slender tile-roof towers, lending a vaguely Italianate air to the austere stucco facade—what a pity that the rooms have little to distinguish them from standard chain hotels except their size and louvered windows. The restaurant, on the other hand, is exceptional. The octagonal sprawl of the skylighted dining room is cheery and welcoming; and simple, streamlined fare—such as strongly flavored loup en papillote (sea bass cooked in parchment)—is a perfect prelude to the vanilla ice cream–filled baked pears.
Pl. de l'Église, 6 km (4 miles) northwest of Béziers, Lignan-sur-Orb, 34490, France