Blink and look again: twins Laurent and Jacques Pourcel, trained under separate masters, combine forces here to achieve a quiet, almost cerebral cuisine based on southern French traditions. At every turn are happy surprises, including foie gras crisps, dried-fruit risotto, and lamb sweetbreads with prawns. The interior is stylishly minimalist, with steel beams and tables on three tiers. Truth is, the restaurant is in a rather delabré working-class neighborhood, and from the outside looks like an anonymous warehouse incongruous with its Michelin-starred reputation. A modest lunch menu lets you indulge at a lower cost.