This friendly restaurant, between the cathedral and the Loire, is the city's best value. Chef Gildas Marsollier wins customers with delicious fennel-perfumed salmon, oysters in an egg sauce seasoned with Roquefort; various takes on regional chicken; and remarkable desserts. Wine is served by the glass, a great way to try some of the local appellations. Gentle lighting and the 17th-century wood beams and stone walls provide a soothing background. Mme Marsollier, co-owner
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