The flamboyant opulence of this cozy, wood-beamed restaurant close to the river, with its red walls, cane-backed chairs, and brass chandeliers, is a perfect setting for Philippe Bardau's colorfully presented dishes. Some have a Mediterranean flavor, like his mullet with eggplant or sea bass with artichokes and fennel; others are more regional, like the sandre (pike-perch) fresh from the Loire. Richer fare includes pigeon with truffle risotto, fillet of beef with truffled gnocchi, game in season, and foie gras with artichoke mousseline. For dessert, try the red berries with blackberry milk shake. M.Bardau
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