A stately lime tree stands sentinel behind wrought-iron, wisteria-framed gates outside this 17th-century mansion on a calm street between the Hôtel de Ville and the river. Inside, an extreme makeover has lent a spiffy, modern air to the interiors. The blazing red reception area, smartly adorned with moderne seating, seques to the upstairs guest rooms: rather petit, most are decorated in beiges, grays, and muted pastel shades. Pros: calm; good value. Cons: basic room decor; rustic plumbing. receptionist
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