Fifty years ago Loire Valley guidebooks praised this domain and, delightfully, things have only gotten better. Like a Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud, this hotel keeps purring along, offering many delights: a romantic, twin-towered château, Loire River vista, tranquil guest rooms (four of the less expensive are in a charming "Pavillon Renaissance"), and excellent restaurant. The latter is set in two salons, one in Charles-Dix golds, the other lighted with chandeliers and stained-glass windows, lined with tapestries, and spectacularly centered around a neo-Gothic, sculpted-wood fireplace. Chef Ludovic Laurenty, who earned his first Michelin rosette in 2008, loves his independence: he has his own vegetable garden in the grounds, and cooks his own bread. You can sample his skill for EUR 30 with the lunchtime menu, or by enrolling for a cooking class. Pros: marvelous setting; superlative good-value restaurant. Cons: service can be haughty; no bar. Aude (reception)
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