Extraordinaire is the word for some of the dozen luxe-troglodyte rooms at this famous hotel, set 5 km (3 mi) to the east of Tours in elegant Rochecorbon (a favored country residence for rich Parisians). Studding a towering cliff-face, these amazing accommodations come replete with elegant sash windows, gas-lantern lamps, and finished marble steps. Don't expect furnishings à la Fred Flintstone: half the guest-room walls are Ice Age, but stylish fabrics, Louis Treize seating, and carved fireplaces are the main allurements. Some prefer rooms in the regular house—no cave-dwelling drama, but exquisitely comfortable and air-conditioned. The restaurant (closed Monday, no lunch Wednesday, no dinner Sunday) has an extremely staid decor, so most everyone repairs to the enchanting terrace to feast on a panoply of foie gras, fish and duck dishes, and architectonic desserts—one of the best kitchens in the Loire (don't forget to order a selection from the gigantic cheese tray). To top it all off, a small pool tempts all during the Loire's stifling summer. Rochecorbon is a treat (once you get off the main traffic road), thanks to its pretty town center, acres of vineyards, and the only "Bateaux Promenade" (boat-ride) on the Loire. Pros: unique troglodyte setting; river views. Cons: apprentice-style service; busy road nearby. Virginie (reception)
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