Walk past Quai Suffern—where a statue of the Bailli de Suffren, an 18th-century customs official, stands guard—and streets lined with famous cafés to the Mole Jean Réveille, the harbor wall, where, if the wind isn't too strong, you can walk out for a good view of Ste-Maxime across the sparkling bay, the hills of Estérel, and, on a clear day, the distant Alps. Retrace your steps along the mole and quayside to the 15th-century Tour du Portalet and head past it to the old fishermen's quarter, the Quartier de la Ponche, just east of Quai Jean Jaurès. Here you can find the Port des Pécheurs (Fishermen's Port), on whose beach Bardot did a star-turn in And God Created Woman. Twisting, narrow streets, designed to break the impact of the mistral, open to tiny squares with fountains. Complete with gulf-side harbor, St-Tropez's Old Town maze of backstreets and old ramparts is daubed in shades of gold, pink, ocher, and sky-blue. Trellised jasmine and wrought-iron birdcages
hang from the shuttered windows, and many of the tiny streets dead-end at the sea. The main drag here, Rue de la Ponche, leads into Place l'Hôtel de Ville, landmarked by a mairie (town hall) marked out in typical Tropezienne hues of pink and green. Head up Rue Commandant Guichard to the Baroque Église de St-Tropez to pay your respects to the bust and barque of St. Torpes, every day but May 17, when they are carried aloft in the Bravade parade honoring the town's namesake saint.