From the crest-top Jardin Exotique, full of rare succulents, you can pan your videocam all the way around the hills and waterfront (and then, just a few feet from the entrance, take a time-out lunch at the Nid d'Aigle, an inexpensive eaterie featuring focaccias and salads, quaintly set on stone levels rising up around a tall tree). But if you want a prayer of a chance of enjoying the magnificence of the village's arched passages, stone alleyways, and ancient fountains,
come at dawn or after sunset—or (if you have the means) stay the night—but spend the midday elsewhere. The church of Notre-Dame, consecrated in 1772, glitters inside with Baroque retables and altarpieces. Èze's tourist office, on Place du Général-de-Gaulle, can direct you to the numerous footpaths—the most famous being the Sentier Friedrich Nietzsche —that thread Èze with the coast's three corniche highways (you can walk it from the train station to the village in 90 minutes, but you need proper footware). Èze Village is the famous hilltop destination, but Èze extends down to the coastal beach and the township of Èze-sur-Mer; on either side a vast Grande Corniche Parc keeps things green and verdant.
20 rue du Château, Èze, 06360, France