This back-alley landmark, where rustic olive-wood tables line the narrow street, is the most popular dive in town for the snack food unique to Nice. Curt waiters splash down your drink order, but you have to get in line for the food and carry it steaming to the table yourself. There's socca, of course, the grainy golden pancake of chickpea flour scraped with a palette knife straight off the griddle; spicy assortments of petits farcis; pissaladières heaped with caramelized onions and shiny black olives; and sweet tourta de blea, full of chopped Swiss chard and sprinkled with pine nuts. It's off Place Garibaldi on the edge of the Old Town, across from the gare routière (bus station).
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