Whether you crowd into a banquette in the dark, low-ceilinged bar or win a coveted (albeit plastic) table under the arcaded porticoes on Place Garibaldi, this is the place to go for shellfish in Nice. Order a bottle of something cold, spread butter on the sliced brown bread, and dive into the platters set before you: sea snails, clams, plump fines de claires and Mediterranean bouzigue oysters, salty snail-like violets, and urchins by the dozen, their spines still waving. They've all just been pried open at the refrigerator-counters on the sidewalk, with dripping crates of fresh supplies standing by. It's packed noon and night, and there's a thriving young scene after work.
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