What better way to experience Old Haut-de-Cagnes's grand castle views than to stay in a 13th-century manor perched on the ramparts of the Grimaldi fortress? Maintaining a discreet sense of medieval atmosphere—pastel-rubbed beams, restored murals and vaulting, a few four-poster beds—this enchantingly romantic inn offers regal comfort (bathrooms are ablaze with modern luxe) and storybook allure. Mostly set in adjoining townhouses—although you might find yourself climbing your own private street-staircase or strolling an alley away to find your chamber—most guest rooms look out over the Old Town and on toward the sea. The hub of Le Cagnard is its famous restaurant, where you'll want to enjoy both lunch and dinner. Luncheons are served in a seignorial 14th-century Salle des Gardes, whose vaulted walls were covered by "courtly" paintings by one of Haut-de-Cagnes bohemian residents at the beginning of the 20th century. Dinner is held in an adjacent salon whose remarkable ceiling, covered in Renaissance-style caissons, can be retracted to show off the night sky (cute: they only open it after the village birds have eaten and flown over the hill to nest). The lavish menu (no lunch Monday and Tuesday; closed Thursday; reservations essential) lives up to the surrounding splendor with dishes like foie gras cooked with figs, peaches, apricots, and rosemary; an indescribably delcious rouget served tempura-fashion with spring rolls; or the showstopper, second-act curtain, and encore all-in-one: the heavenly black truffle lasagna. Portions are generous, but try to resist and wait for dessert—the caramelized apple pie is amazing, as is everything else that comes out of chef Jean-Yves Johany's kitchen. The word "Cagnard" means "very warm sun" in the Provençal dialect, and we can only say that everyone here will enjoy basking in the warmth of Jean-Marc and Françoise Laroche's welcome. If you are arriving on the town square by the shuttlebus, the hotel's voiturier will be sent to pick up your luggage.
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