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At the edge of all this epic wilderness, it's a bit of a shock to find this picture-perfect village tucked into a spectacular cleft in vertical cliffs, its bluffs laced with bridges, draped with medieval stone houses, and crowned with church steeples. The Verdon gushes out of the rock at the village's heart, and between the two massive rocks that tower over the ensemble, a star swings suspended from a
To most, the name Moustiers means faience, the fine, glazed earthenware that has been produced here since the 17th century, when a monk brought in the secret of enamel glazes from Faenza in Umbria. Its brilliant white finish caught the world's fancy, especially when the fashionable grotesques of Jean Berain, decorator to Louis XIV, were imitated and produced in exquisite detail. A colony of ceramists still creates Moustiers faience today, from large commercial producers to independent artisans.
Every few years (dates are not carved in pottery) the village celebrates the Fete de la Cité de la Faïence over three days in late spring with movies, dancing, walks, faience demonstrations, and, of course, food and apéros.
The most touristy of all the hill towns in the Haut Var backcountry (all of which are called Pays de Fayence), Fayence is easiest to reach from...
Turn your back on modern times—the gargantuan, pink, holiday high-rises that crowd the Fréjus–St-Raphaël waterfront—and head uphill to Fréjus...