This white-stucco slice of old-fashioned Riviera extravagance remains the icon of Nice today, accommodating well-heeled guests in elegant, uniquely decorated guest rooms replete with swagged drapes and fine antiques (plus a few unfortunate "with-it" touches like those plastic-glitter bathtubs). The landmark—built by Henri Negresco and opened in 1912—epitomizes La Belle Époque, thanks to its marble columns, gilded ceilings, and qualité du Louvre collection of old-master paintings and sculptures; yet the hotel has reinvented its attitude and affordability since a massive renovation. The entrance hall (and the welcome) has lost its stuffiness in favor of a lighter decor, while its awe-inspiring glass ceiling has been listed as a historic monument. See Hôtel Negresco. Le Chantecler (open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday plus Sunday lunch except January) ranks among the finest restaurants in France, with superchef Jean-Denis Rieubland at the helm adding some modern
touches to the menu, and drawing in younger crowds. La Rotonde—complete with a carousel of painted wooden horses and a Folies Bérgère chandelier—is an over-the-top setting for lunch and dinner; the impressive breakfast is served in the Regency Salon. For a touch of the Old Riviera, repair to the historic walnut-and-velour bar (the best on the coast) for a champagne cocktail.