Fréjus

Don't be turned off if you begin with a stroll on the sandy curve along the tacky, overcommercialized Fréjus-Plage (Fréjus Beach). Just turn your back on modern times and head uphill to Fréjus-Centre. Here you can enter a maze of narrow streets lined with small shops barely touched by the cult of the lavender sachet. The farmers' market (Wednesday and Saturday mornings) is as real and lively as any in Provence, and the cafés encircling the fountains and squares nourish an easygoing social scene. Sunday morning along Boulevard de la Liberation you can find food to footwear and clothing to tablecloths.