Set on a rocky spur just outside town, the former home of the count-bishops of Cahors has older rooms in baronial splendor (ask for one of these), as well as unappealing modern ones (which tend to attract midges); others have a mix of French Moderne and medieval-esque furniture that can be jarring, but the ambitious restaurant and great views make up for a lot of sins. One of the best guest rooms is "Tour," with a clever ceiling that slides back to expose the turret. Duck,
seafood, and truffles reign in the dining room ($$$$, closed Monday), where Michelin-starred chef Philippe Combet serves a gourmet cuisine equal to the wines from the estate's highly touted wine cellar.
8 km (5 miles) northwest of Cahors on road to Villeneuve-sur-Lot, Mercuès, 46090, France