Sare

The memorably picturesque village of Sare is built around a large fronton, or backboard, where a permanent pelota game rages around the clock. Not surprisingly, the Hôtel de Ville (town hall) offers a permanent exhibition on Pelote Basque (July and Aug., daily 9-1 and 2-6:30; Sept.-June, daily 3-6). Sare was a busy smuggling hub throughout the 19th century. Its chief attractions are colorful wood-beam and whitewashed Basque architecture, the 16th-century late-Romanesque church with its lovely triple-decker interior, and the Ospitale Zaharra pilgrim's hospice behind the church. More than a dozen tiny chapels sprinkled around Sare were built as ex-votos by seamen who survived Atlantic storms. Also not to miss is the typical Basque house Ortillopitz (Mar.-Nov., daily 9-1 and 2-6:30 www.ortillopitz.com), a 16th-century country manor offering farmhouse charm and scenic vistas. The Musée du Gâteau Basque (Daily 9-1 and 2-6:30), tracing the evolution of the most famous of Basque pastries, is another Sare treat.