Fodor's Expert Review Chez Ruffet

Well worth the short drive (or, even better, a 2-km [1-mile] hike) out to Jurançon, this 18th-century farmhouse with its classically lovely dovecote and ancient beams, floorboards, and fireplace is the best restaurant in or near Pau. Chefs Stéphane Carrade and Marc Cazeils have imbibed deeply from the masters—Bocuse, Guérard, Troisgros—and promptly taken off in all directions, mostly their own. Fascinated with worldwide products and preparations, the Carrade-Cazeils syntony ranges from agneau d'Aragón clouté au lomo Ibérico et badigeonné au miso et gingembre (lamb from Aragón with Ibérico fillet daubed with miso and ginger), combining Aragonese, Andalusian, Japanese, and Moorish flavors. The fois frais de canard cuit à l'étouffé aux feuilles de citronnier et sarments de vignes (fresh foie stewed with lemon leaves and grapevine cuttings) is another signature offering.