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1. 3e Arrondissement
Marais QuarterIn recent years, the 3e arrondissement, known at the "haut Marais," or upper Marais, has morphed into one of the city's hottest neighborhoods. Its charming old notions and hardware shops have been replaced by cool cafés, art galleries, and trendy boutiques. To enjoy this alluring quartier like a local, first head to Rue de Bretagne, the main drag. Stop for lunch at one of the food stalls in the Marché des Enfants Rouges (No. 39, open Tuesday through Sunday); it's the oldest covered market in Paris. Next, explore narrow side streets, like Rues Charlot, Debelleyme, and Poitou, lined with art galleries and small boutiques. Stop for a famous chausson aux pommes at Poilâne bakery ( 38 rue Debelleyme), or treat yourself to a homemade gelato at Pastelli Mary Gelateria ( 60 rue du Temple) before a visit to one of Paris's most original small museums, the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature ( 62 rue des Archives). The park attached to the City Hall (Mairie) of the 3e arrondissement is a fine place to picnic or relax and watch the world go by, complete with a children's playground, a charming duck pond, and lovely greenery. Across the street is the 19th-century cast-iron-and-glass Carreau du Temple, which is now a locally driven arts and sports community center. This is the site of the former Templar Tower, where Louis XIV and Marie-Antoinette were imprisoned before the king's date with the guillotine. (Napoléon later razed it.) For your evening apéritif, make a beeline for the buzzy Café Charlot ( 38 rue de Bretagne). If you're in the mood for a cocktail, try the Little Red Door speakeasy ( 60 rue Charlot).
Paris, Île-de-France, France -
2. Abbaye aux Hommes
Caen's finest church, of cathedral proportions, is part of the Abbaye aux Hommes, built by William the Conqueror from local Caen stone (which was also used for England's Canterbury Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, and the Tower of London). The abbey was begun in Romanesque style in 1066 and expanded in the 18th century; its elegant buildings are now part of City Hall, and some rooms are brightened by the city's fine collection of paintings. Note the magnificent yet spare facade of the abbey church of St-Étienne, enhanced by two 11th-century towers topped by octagonal spires. Inside, what had been William the Conqueror's tomb was destroyed by 16th-century Huguenots during the Wars of Religion. However, the choir still stands; it was the first to be built in Norman Gothic style, and many subsequent choirs were modeled after it. Guided tours in English are available weekdays in July and August.
Esplanade Jean-Marie Louve, Caen, Normandy, 14000, France02–31–30–42–81Sight Details
Rate Includes: €5, Closed weekends in Jan. -
3. Abbaye de Cluny
Founded in the 10th century, the Abbaye de Cluny was the largest church in Europe until the 16th century, when St. Peter's Basilica in Rome was built. Art historians have written themselves into knots tracing the fundamental influence of its architecture in the development of early Gothic style. Cluny's medieval abbots were as powerful as popes; in 1098 Pope Urban II (himself a Cluniac) assured the head of his old abbey that Cluny was the "light of the world." That assertion, of dubious religious validity, did not stand the test of time; after the Revolution the abbey was sold as national property and much of it was used as a stone quarry. Today Cluny stands in ruins, a reminder of the vanity of human grandeur. What remains, however, suggests the size and gorgeous glory of the abbey at its zenith, and piecing it back together in your mind is part of the attraction. In order to get a clear sense of what you're looking at, start at the Porte d'Honneur, the entrance to the abbey from the village, whose classical architecture is reflected in the pilasters and Corinthian columns of the Clocher de l'Eau-Bénite (a majestic bell tower), crowning the only remaining part of the abbey church, the south transept. Between the two is the reconstructed monumental staircase, which led to the portal of the abbey church, and the excavated column bases of the vast narthex. The entire nave is gone. On one side of the transept is a national horse-breeding center (haras) founded in 1806 by Napoléon and constructed with materials from the destroyed abbey; on the other is an elegant pavilion built as new monks' lodgings in the 18th century. The gardens in front of it once contained an ancient lime tree (destroyed by a 1982 storm) named after Abélard, the controversial philosopher who sought shelter here in 1142. Off to the right is the 13th-century farinier (flour store), with its fine oak-and-chestnut roof and collection of exquisite Romanesque capitals from the vanished choir. The Musée d'Art et d'Archéologie, in the Palais Jean de Bourbon, contains Europe's foremost Romanesque lapidary museum. Vestiges of both the abbey and the village constructed around it are conserved here, as well as part of the Bibliothèque des Moines (Monks' Library).
Pl. de l'abbaye, Cluny, Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, 71250, France03–85–59–15–93-for AbbayeSight Details
Rate Includes: €9.50 abbey and museum -
4. Abbaye de Fontenay
The best-preserved of the Cistercian abbeys, the Abbaye de Fontenay was founded in 1118 by St-Bernard. The same Cistercian criteria applied to Fontenay as to Pontigny: no-frills architecture and an isolated site—the spot was especially remote, for it had been decreed that these monasteries could not be established anywhere near "cities, feudal manors, or villages." The monks were required to live a completely self-sufficient existence, with no contact whatsoever with the outside world. By the end of the 12th century the buildings were finished, and the abbey's community grew to some 300 monks. Under the protection of Pope Gregory IX and Hughes IV, duke of Burgundy, the monastery soon controlled huge land holdings, vineyards, and timberlands. It prospered until the 16th century, when religious wars and administrative mayhem hastened its decline. Dissolved during the French Revolution, the abbey was used as a paper factory until 1906. Fortunately, the historic buildings emerged unscathed. The abbey is surrounded by extensive, immaculately tended gardens dotted with the fountains that gave it its name. The church's solemn interior is lightened by windows in the facade and by a double row of three narrow windows, representing the Trinity, in the choir. A staircase in the south transept leads to the wooden-roof dormitory (spare a thought for the bleary-eyed monks, obliged to stagger down for services in the dead of night). The chapter house, flanked by a majestic arcade, and the scriptorium, where monks worked on their manuscripts, lead off from the adjoining cloisters.
6 km (3 miles) from Montbard TGV station, Marmagne, Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, 21500, France03–80–92–15–00Sight Details
Rate Includes: €11 -
5. Abbaye de Montmajour
This magnificent Romanesque abbey looming over the marshlands north of Arles stands in partial ruin. Founded in the 10th century by a handful of Benedictine monks, the abbey grew according to an ambitious plan of church, crypt, and cloister and, under the management of worldly lay monks in the 17th century, became more sumptuous. When the Catholic church ejected those monks, they sacked the place, and what remained was eventually sold off as scrap. A 19th-century medieval revival spurred a partial restoration, but portions are still in ruins; what remains is a spare and beautiful piece of Romanesque architecture. The cloister rivals that of St-Trophime in Arles for its balance, elegance, and air of mystical peace. Van Gogh, drawn to isolation, came often to the abbey to reflect, but the strong mistral winds kept him from painting here. The interior, renovated by architect Rudy Ricciotti, is used for world-class contemporary art exhibitions.
Rte. de Fontvieille, Arles, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, 13200, France04–90–54–64–17Sight Details
Rate Includes: €6, Closed Mon. Oct.–Mar. -
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6. Abbaye de Sénanque
If you've fantasized about Provence's famed lavender fields, head to the wild valley some 4 km (2½ miles) north of Gordes (via D177), where this photogenic, 12th-century, Romanesque abbey seemingly floats above a fragrant sea of purple blooms from late June through August. Begun in 1150 and completed at the dawn of the 13th century, the church and adjoining cloister are without decoration but still touch the soul with their chaste beauty. Along with the abbeys of Le Thornet and Silvacane, this is one of a trio of "Three Sisters" built by the Cistercian Order in this area. Next door, the enormous vaulted dormitory contains an exhibition on Abbaye de Sénanque's construction, and the refectory shelters a display on the history of Cistercian abbeys. The few remaining monks here now preside over a cultural center presenting concerts and exhibitions. The bookshop has a huge collection of books about Provence (lots in English).
Gordes, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, 84220, France04–90–72–05–72Sight Details
Rate Includes: €8.50 -
7. Abbaye du Mont-St-Michel
A magnetic beacon to millions of travelers each year, this "wonder of the Western World"—a 264-foot mound of rock topped by a history-shrouded abbey—remains the crowning glory of medieval France. Wrought by nature and centuries of tireless human toil, the sea-surrounded mass of granite adorned with the soul-lifting silhouette of the Abbaye du Mont-St-Michel may well be your most lasting image of Normandy. The abbey is perched on a 264-foot-high rock a few hundred yards off the coast: it's surrounded by water during the year's highest tides and by desolate sand flats the rest of the time. Be warned: tides in the bay are dangerously unpredictable. The sea can rise up to 45 feet at high tide and rushes in at incredible speed—more than a few ill-prepared tourists over the years have drowned. Also, be warned that there are patches of dangerous quicksand. Legend has it that the Archangel Michael appeared in 709 to Aubert, bishop of Avranches, inspiring him to build an oratory on what was then called Mont Tombe. The rock and its shrine were soon the objects of pilgrimages. The original church was completed in 1144, but additional buildings were added in the 13th century to accommodate monks as well as the hordes of pilgrims who flocked here even during the Hundred Years' War, when the region was in English hands. During the period when much of western France was subjected to English rule, the abbey remained a symbol, both physical and emotional, of French independence. Because of its legendary origins and the sheer exploit of its centuries-long construction, the abbey became known as the "Merveille de l'Occident" (Wonder of the Western World). Year-round, free 75-minute-long guided tours in English and French (frequency depending on season) can take you through the impressive Romanesque and Gothic abbey and the spectacular Église Abbatiale, the abbey church, which crowns the rock, as well as the Merveille, a 13th-century, three-story collection of rooms and passageways. The tourism office also offers a list of local experts available for tours on its website. La Merveille was built by King Philippe Auguste around and on top of the monastery; on its second floor is the Mont's grandest chamber, the Salle des Chevaliers. Another longer tour, which also includes the celebrated Escalier de Dentelle (Lace Staircase), and the pre-Roman, exquisitely evocative Notre-Dame-sous-Terre has a higher ticket price and is only given in French. Invest in at least one tour while you are here—some of them get you on top of or into things you can't see alone. If you choose to proceed independently, stop halfway up Grande-Rue at the medieval parish church of St-Pierre to admire the richly carved side chapel with its dramatic statue of St-Michael slaying the dragon. Give yourself at least half a day here, and follow your nose. The mount is full of nooks, crannies, little gardens, and echoing views from the ramparts. It's worth lingering to see the Mont spectacularly illuminated, nightly from dusk to midnight.
Le Mont-Saint-Michel, Normandy, 50170, France02–33–89–80–00Sight Details
Rate Includes: From €11 -
8. Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud
Founded in 1101, the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud (Royal Abbey) had separate churches and living quarters for nuns, monks, lepers, "repentant" female sinners, and the sick. Between 1115 and the French Revolution in 1789, a succession of 39 abbesses—among them a granddaughter of William the Conqueror—directed operations. The great 12th-century Église Abbatiale (Abbey Church) contains the tombs of Henry II of England, his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine, and their son, Richard Cœur de Lion (the Lionheart). Although their bones were scattered during the Revolution, their effigies still lie en couchant in the middle of the echoey nave. Napoléon turned the abbey church into a prison, and so it remained until 1963, when historical restoration work began. The Salle Capitulaire (Chapter House), adjacent to the church, with its collection of 16th-century religious wall paintings (prominent abbesses served as models), is unmistakably Renaissance; the paving stones bear the salamander emblem of François I. Next to the long refectory is the famously octagonal Cuisine (Kitchen), topped by 20 scaly stone chimneys led by the Tour d'Evrault.
Pl. des Plantagenêts, Fontevraud-l'Abbaye, Pays de la Loire, 49590, France02–41–51–73–52Sight Details
Rate Includes: €12 -
9. Abbaye St-Martin du Canigou
Visitors, tackling a steep, mile-long climb from the parking area, come to make a pilgrimage—aesthetic or spiritual—to this celebrated medieval abbey. It's one of the most photographed in Europe thanks to its sky-kissing location atop a triangular promontory at an altitude of nearly 3,600 feet. St-Martin du Canigou's breathtaking mountain setting was due, in part, to an effort to escape the threat of marauding Saracens from the Middle East. Constructed in 1009 by Count Guifré of Cerdagne, then damaged by an earthquake in 1428 and abandoned in 1783, the abbey was diligently (perhaps too diligently) restored by the Bishop of Perpignan early in the 20th century. The oldest parts are the cloisters and the two churches, of which the lower church, dedicated to Notre-Dame-sous-Terre, is the most ancient. Rising above is a stocky, fortified bell tower. Masses are sung daily—Easter Mass is especially joyous and moving—but the Abbey can only be visited by guided tour (with French narration only), offered five times daily; reservations are not needed unless traveling as a group of 15 or more.
Casteil, Vernet-les-Bains, Occitania, 66820, France04–68–05–50–03Sight Details
Rate Includes: €6, Closed Jan. and Mon. Oct.–May -
10. Aiguille du Midi
This 12,619-foot granite peak is topped with a needle-like observation tower, terrace, and restaurants. The world's highest cable car soars 12,000 feet up, almost to the top (an elevator completes the journey to the summit), providing positively staggering views of 15,700-foot Mont Blanc, Europe's loftiest peak. Be prepared for a lengthy wait, both going up and coming down—and wear warm clothing.
100 pl. de l'aiguille du Midi, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, 74400, FranceSight Details
Rate Includes: Cable car €73 round-trip -
11. Arc de Triomphe
Champs-ÉlyséesInspired by Rome's Arch of Titus, this colossal, 164-foot triumphal arch was ordered by Napoléon—who liked to consider himself the heir to Roman emperors—to celebrate his military successes. Unfortunately, Napoléon's strategic and architectural visions were not entirely on the same plane, and the Arc de Triomphe proved something of an embarrassment. Although the emperor wanted the monument completed in time for an 1810 parade in honor of his new bride, Marie-Louise, it was still only a few feet high, and a dummy arch of painted canvas was strung up to save face. Empires come and go, but Napoléon's had been gone for more than 20 years before the Arc was finally finished in 1836. A small museum halfway up recounts its history. The Arc de Triomphe is notable for magnificent sculptures by François Rude, including the Departure of the Volunteers in 1792, better known as La Marseillaise, to the right of the arch when viewed from the Champs-Élysées. Names of Napoléon's generals are inscribed on the stone facades—the underlined names identify the hallowed figures who fell in battle. The traffic circle around the Arc is named for Charles de Gaulle, but it's known to Parisians as L'Étoile, or "the Star"—a reference to the streets that fan out from it. Climb the stairs to the top of the arch and you can see the star effect of the 12 radiating avenues and the vista down the Champs-Élysées toward Place de la Concorde and the distant Musée du Louvre. Paris mayor Anne Hildago's ambitious plans to "green" the city include a total makeover for the Place d'Étoile to make visiting the Arc de Triomphe a safer and more pleasant experience. By 2024, traffic will be limited in favor of enlarged pedestrian areas and a wide expanse of trees extending all the way down the Champs-Élysées. France's Unknown Soldier is buried beneath the arch, and a commemorative flame is rekindled every evening at 6:30. That's the most atmospheric time to visit, but, to beat the crowds, come early in the morning or buy your ticket online. Be wary of the traffic circle that surrounds the arch. It's infamous for accidents—including one several years ago that involved the French transport minister. Always use the underground passage from the northeast corner of Avenue des Champs-Élysées.
View Tours and ActivitiesPl. Charles-de-Gaulle, Paris, Île-de-France, 75008, France01–55–37–73–77Sight Details
Rate Includes: €13, Last admission 45 mins before closing -
12. Arènes
Rivaled only by the even better-preserved version in Nîmes, the arena dominating old Arles was built in the 1st century AD to seat 21,000 people, with large tunnels through which wild beasts were forced to run into the center. Before being plundered in the Middle Ages, the structure had three stories of 60 arcades each; the four medieval towers are testimony to a transformation from classical sports arena to feudal fortification. Complete restoration of the arena began in 1825. Today it's primarily a venue for the traditional spectacle of the corridas, which take place annually during the féria pascale, or Easter festival. The less bloodthirsty local variant course carmarguaise (in which the bull is not killed) also takes place here. Festival season starts with the Fête des Gardians on May 1, when the Queen of Arles is crowned, and culminates in early July with the award of the Cocarde d'Or (Golden Rosette) to the most successful raseteur. It's best to book event tickets in advance.
24 bis, Rond Point des Arènes, Arles, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, 13200, France04–90–18–41–20-for arena infoSight Details
Rate Includes: €9, includes admission to Théâtre Antique -
13. Arènes
The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world is a miniature of the Colosseum in Rome (note the small carvings of Romulus and Remus, the wrestling gladiators, on the exterior, and the intricate bulls' heads etched into the stone over the entrance on the north side). More than 435 feet long and 330 feet wide, it had a seating capacity of 24,000 in its day. Bloody gladiator battles, criminals being thrown to animals, and theatrical wild-boar chases drew crowds to its bleachers. Nowadays it hosts bullfights, which transform the arena (and all of Nîmes) into a sangria-flushed homage to Spain, and summer concerts. Self-guided audio tours are available.
Bd. des Arènes, Nîmes, Occitania, 30189, France04–66–21–82–56Sight Details
Rate Includes: €10 -
14. Artemisia Museum
At this unique museum in the 13th-century Couvent des Cordeliers, you'll learn how the aromatic plants and medicinal herbs of the Montagne de Lure, part of a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, have traditionally been grown, gathered, and used in remedies, perfumes, and cosmetics. Explanatory panels, botanical illustrations, plant specimens, and fragrance galleries are used to create a multisensory educational experience in themed exhibits such as Lavender, Pickers & Peddlers, The Druggists, Distillation, Plants & Elixirs, and Plants & Beauty. In addition, activity booklets and special displays help children navigate and understand the exhibits. For total immersion, sign up for one of the two-hour perfume workshops, which are offered for both adults (€45) and kids (€25).
Couvent des Cordeliers, Forcalquier, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, 04300, France04–92–72–50–68Sight Details
Rate Includes: €6, Closed Tues., Sat., and Sun. -
15. At Home with Patricia Wells Cooking Classes
Although Vaison has centuries-old attractions, the most popular for Americans may well be the classes offered by Patricia Wells, the food critic who made a name for herself writing posh columns and The Food Lover's Guide to France. She now introduces people to the splendors of French cooking—in her lovely farmhouse and above her own Chanteduc vineyards outside Vaison. Weeklong culinary seminars are deluxe ($6,000 a student) and exclusive (maximum of 12 students), and the January truffle workshop usually sells out, so book early (online only).
Vaison-la-Romaine, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, 84110, France -
16. Atelier Cézanne
Just north of the vieille ville (Old Town) loop you'll find Cézanne's studio. After the death of his mother forced the sale of the painter's beloved country retreat, Jas de Bouffan, he had this atelier built and some of his finest works, including Les Grandes Baigneuses (The Large Bathers), were created in the upstairs workspace. But what is most striking is the collection of simple objects that once featured prominently in his portraits and still lifes—redingote, bowler hat, ginger jar—all displayed as if awaiting his return. The atelier is behind an obscure garden gate on the left as you climb Avenue Paul-Cézanne.
9 av. Paul-Cézanne, Aix-en-Provence, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, 13100, France04–42–21–06–53Sight Details
Rate Includes: €7, Closed Jan., Sun. and Mon. in Feb., and Sun. in Dec. -
17. Atelier des Lumières
Père LachaiseAn abandoned iron foundry in the hip 11e arrondissement is the soaring backdrop for Culturespace's newest feast for the eyes and the senses, where visitors are invited to actually step into the midst of some of the great masterpieces of 19th- and 20th-century painting (many found in famous Parisian museums). More than 100 video projectors cast vivid scenes of gorgeously colored artwork on the walls, ceilings, and floors, accompanied by a dynamic soundtrack for total immersion into a 30-minute explosion of color and sound.
38–40 rue St-Maur, Paris, Île-de-France, 75011, France01–80–98–46–00Sight Details
Rate Includes: €16 -
18. Au Printemps
Grands BoulevardsEncompassing a trio of upscale department stores (Printemps Mode, Printemps Beauté-Maison-Enfant, and Printemps Homme), this vast, venerable retailer has been luring shoppers since 1865 and has lately upped its glamour quotient with a series of elegant storewide restorations. Besides the clothes, shoes, housewares, and everything else, there are appealing dining options here. Two floors of the main building (Printemps Homme) have been completely renovated and are now home to Printemps du Goût, a celebration of French cuisine. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, you can find the best of French foodstuffs on the seventh floor. But if you want to eat in style while taking in spectacular views, either from inside via floor-to-ceiling windows or outside on the wraparound terrace, continue on to the eighth floor, where noted chefs and food artisans—including master cheese-maker Laurent Dubois, chef pâtissier Nina Métayer, and artisanal baker Gontran Cherrier—oversee a gourmet cornucopia. You can also opt for a leisurely shopping break at La Brasserie Printemps, under the famous stained-glass cupola, or the magnificent terrace of restaurant Perruche, with 360-degree views over Paris. Shoppers will be pleased to know that Paris's grand department stores are now open Sunday.
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19. Auguste Perret Model Apartment
A fascinating relic of post–World War II Le Havre, the Auguste Perret Model Apartment is a testament to the city's postwar destruction—and to the determination of architects and city planners to create new homes for displaced residents. Sign up for a guided tour at the city's well-appointed Maison du Patrimoine; while the tour is in French, even nonspeakers will find plenty to admire in the collection of mid-century furniture and utility-minded ceramics and artwork. The apartment makes an interesting counterpoint to Perret's nearby masterpiece, the Église St-Joseph.
181 rue de Paris, Le Havre, Normandy, 76600, France02–35–22–31–22Sight Details
Rate Includes: €5, Closed Mon., Tues., and Thurs. Oct.–Mar., Reservation required -
20. Basilique de St-Denis
Built between 1136 and 1286, St-Denis Basilica is one of the most important Gothic churches in France. It was here, under dynamic prelate Abbé Suger, that Gothic architecture (typified by pointed arches and rib vaults) was said to have made its first appearance. The kings of France soon chose St-Denis as their final resting place, and their richly sculpted tombs—along with what remains of Suger's church—can be seen in the choir area at the east end. The basilica was battered during the Revolution; afterward, however, Louis XVIII reestablished it as the royal burial site by moving the remains of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette here to join centuries' worth of monarchial bones. The vast 13th-century nave is a brilliant example of structural logic; its columns, capitals, and vault are a model of architectural harmony. The facade, retaining the rounded arches of the Romanesque that preceded the Gothic period, is set off by a small rose window, reputedly the oldest in France. Check out the extensive archaeological finds, such as a Merovingian queen's grave goods. Occasional guided tours in English are offered (see website for exact times); if you'd rather explore on your own, audioguides are available for €3, as is a free English-language information leaflet.
1 rue de la Légion d'Honneur, St-Denis, Île-de-France, 93200, France01–48–09–83–54Sight Details
Rate Includes: €9.50
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