In a lovely 18th-century house in the Quartier Mazarin, this eccentric and slightly threadbare inn is the antithesis of slick. Its large rooms are furnished gracefully enough with secondhand finds, and some rooms have original 18th-century painted door panels. If you like charm, you'll notice the novel furniture, the elegance of the structure, and the music of the bells of St-Jean-de-Malte. A favorite among writers, artists, and musicians on hand for the festival, it also
has kitchenette suites; the two that are across from the Musée Granet and the ground-floor one with a private garden are the best.