On a tiny rock-ringed lagoon as isolated from the nearby city as if it were a desert island, this beautiful cinematic spot was once a customs house under Napoléon III. You can rent a mattress and lounge chair (EUR 10), dive into the turquoise water, and shower off for the only kind of meal worthy of such a location: fresh fish. There's bouillabaisse, of course, but also fresh-grilled sardines, mullet, and baudroie; and crabs, lobster, and local cigales de mer (shrimplike "sea locusts"). It's all served at terrace tables overlooking the water. The expansive owner, son of a fishmonger and grandson of a fisherman, knows his craft, and boasts—literally—Jacques Chirac and Catherine Deneuve among his loyal clientele.
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