Tucked into a picturesque waterside spot in the tiny fishing port Vallon des Auffes, this Marseillais landmark has one of the loveliest settings in greater Marseille. Once presided over by cult chef "Fonfon," it used to be a favorite movie-star hangout. Plain, fresh seafood impeccably grilled, steamed, or roasted in salt crust is still served in two pretty pink dining rooms with picture windows that overlook the fishing boats that supply your dinner. The crowds come to indulge in classic bouillabaisse served with all the bells and whistles -- decadently rich broth, hot-chili rouille, and flamboyant table-side filleting.
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