In a smoky, isolated stone farmhouse chockablock with old posters, you'll taste Camargue cooking at its rustic best. One daily menu includes anchoïade (whole crudités with hard-cooked egg—still in the shell—and anchovy vinaigrette), homemade duck pâté thick with peppercorns, and the pièce de résistance: a thick, sizzling slab of bull steak grilled in the roaring fireplace. Sprinkle on hand-skimmed sea salt and dig in.
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