Arles can't boast a single Van Gogh painting—excusable, given that his works sell for $20 million today—but did they have to name their art museum after Jacques Réattu, a local painter of dazzling mediocrity? This very local art museum lavishes three rooms on his turn-of-the-19th-century ephemera but it also houses a collection of contemporary art (including paintings by the Belgian Alechinsky), photography, and a gathering of bits and pieces by Picasso, including a delightful tongue-in-cheek depiction of noted muse and writer Lee Miller in full Arles dress. The best thing about the Réattu may be the building, a Knights of Malta priory dating from the 15th century, with its fortress-facade overlooking the Rhône.
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