Sheltered by rocky cliffs below the village of Les Baux, this long-famous hotel, with its formal landscaped terrace and broad swimming pool, has a guest book studded with names like Winston Churchill, Elizabeth Taylor, and Picasso. The interior is luxe-Provençal chic, thanks to tile floors, arched stone ceilings, and brocaded settees done up in Canovas and Halard fabrics. Guest rooms -- breezy, private, and beautifully furnished with antiques -- have a contemporary flair, but the basic style remains archetypal Baux. These rooms are set in three buildings on broad landscaped grounds, the best of which are in the enchanting Le Manoir. As for the famed Baumanière restaurant (reservations essential), chef Jean-André Charial's hallowed reputation continues to attract culinary pilgrims (too many, it would appear from the noisy crowds that drive up the nearby road to the hotel). You can't blame them: the Oustau tradition is a veritable museum of Provençal heritage, but one that has been given a nouvelle face-lift -- lobster cooked in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and set on a bed of polenta is a typical dazzler. If you're only dining here, be sure to make reservations. Note that from November to December and in March the restaurant is closed Wednesday and doesn't serve lunch Thursday; during January and February both the hotel and restaurant are closed. Meal plans for both hotels are available with a two-night minimum stay.
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