Short for Bazar de l'Hôtel de Ville, BHV houses an enormous basement hardware store that sells everything from doorknobs to cement mixers and has to be seen to be believed. The fashion offerings for men, women, and kids have been totally revamped, with many of the top labels and a fabulous, not-too-crowded lingerie department on the second floor. But BHV is most noteworthy for its high-quality home-decor items, electronics, and office supplies. If you're looking for typically French household goods (like those heavy, gold-rimmed café sets, gorgeous French linens, or Savon de Marseille), this is your ticket. The extensive men's store is across the street at 36 rue de la Verrerie.