Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) briefly made his home and studio in the Hôtel Biron, a grand 18th-century hôtel particulier (private mansion) that now houses the museum dedicated to his work. He died rich and famous, but many of the sculptures that earned him his place in history were originally greeted with contempt by the public, which was unprepared for his powerful brand of sexuality and raw physicality.
Highlights
Most of Rodin's well-known sculptures are in the gardens. The front garden is dominated by The Gates of Hell (circa 1880). Inspired by the monumental bronze doors of Italian Renaissance churches, Rodin set out to illustrate stories from Dante's Divine Comedy. He worked on the sculpture for more than 30 years, and it serves as a "sketch pad" for many of his later works. Look carefully and you can see miniature versions of The Kiss (bottom right), The Thinker (top center), and The Three Shades (top center).
The museum's interior, though showing its age, still serves as an elegantly creaky setting for two floors of Rodin's work including The Bronze Age, inspired by a pilgrimage to Italy and the sculptures of Michelangelo; the work was so realistic, critics accused Rodin of having cast a real body in plaster.
There's also a room of impressive works by Camille Claudel (1864-1943), Rodin's student and longtime mistress. A remarkable sculptor in her own right, her torturous relationship with Rodin eventually drove her out of his studio—and out of her mind. In 1913 she was packed off to an asylum, where she remained until her death.
Tips
For EUR 1, you can enjoy the 7 acres of gardens.
If you want to linger, the café, Le Jardin de Varenne, serves drinks, light meals, and a variety of muffins, small cakes, and desserts in the shade of the garden's linden trees.
As you enter, a space on the right houses temporary exhibitions. A combination ticket is EUR 10.
An English audioguide (EUR 4) is available for the permanent collection and for temporary exhibitions.
Reviewed by bachslunch from US on 11/9/08
A fine collection of Rodin's sculpture, in a lovely setting that was the artist's home and garden complex. Excellent work in an attractive circumstance, well worth a visit.
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