Looming above place du Parvis on the Île de la Cité is the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame, the most enduring symbol of Paris. Begun in 1163, completed in 1345, badly damaged during the Revolution, and restored by the architect EugèneViollet-le-Duc in the 19th century, Notre-Dame may not be France's oldest or largest cathedral, but in beauty and architectural harmony it has few peers—as you can see by studying the facade from the open square. The front entranceways seem like hands joined in prayer, the sculpted kings on the facade form a noble procession, and the west (front) rose window gleams with what seems like divine light. The most dramatic approach to Notre-Dame is from the Rive Gauche, crossing at the Pont au Double from quai de Montebello, at the St-Michel mètro or RER stop. This bridge will take you to the open square, place du Parvis, in front of the cathedral. This area is kilomètre zéro, the spot from which all distances to and from the city are offi cially measured. A polished brass circle set in the ground, about 20 yards from the cathedral's main entrance, marks the exact spot.
A separate entrance, to the left of the front facade if you're facing it, leads to the 387 stone steps of the south tower. These steps take you to the bell of Notre-Dame—as tolled by the fictional Quasimodo. Quasimodo was created by Victor Hugo in the novel Notre-Dame de Paris, published in 1831. The incredible popularity of the book made Parisians finally take notice of the cathedral's state of disrepair and spurred Viollet-le-Duc's renovations. These included the addition of the gargoyles (though technically these are chimeras,as they lack the functioning waterspout of true "gargoyles"), among other things, and resulted in the structure we see today. Looking out from the tower, you can see how Paris—like the trunk of a tree developing new rings—has grown outward from the Ile de la Cité. To the north is Montmartre; to the west is the Arc de Triomphe, at the top of the Champs-Elysées; and to the south are the towers of St-Sulpice and the Panthéon. TIP Lines to climb the tower are shortest on weekday mornings.
Notre-Dame was one of the first Gothic cathedrals in Europe and one of the first buildings to make use of flying buttresses —exterior supports that spread out the weight of the building and roof. At first people thought they looked like scaffolding that the builders forgot to remove. TIP The most tranquil place to appreciate the architecture of Notre-Dame is from the lovely garden behind the cathedral, Square Jean-XXIII. By night, take a boat ride on the Seine for the best view—the lights at night are magnificent.
The West (front) facade has three main entrances: the Portal of the Virgin, on the left; the Portal of the Last Judgment, in the center; and the Portal of St. Anne (the oldest of the three), on the right. As you enter the nave, the faith of the early builders permeates the quiet interior: the soft glow of the stained glass windows contrasts with the triumphant glory of the exterior. The best time to visit is early in the morning, when the cathedral is at its brightest and least crowded. At the entrance are the massive 12th-century columns supporting the towers. Look down the nave to the transepts—the arms of the church—where, at the south (right) entrance to the choir, you'll glimpse the haunting 12th-century statue of Notre-Dame de Paris,Our Lady of Paris, for whom the cathedral is named. On the south side of the choir is the Treasury,with a small collection of garments, reliquaries, and silver and gold plate. Behind the choir you can see The Pietà,representing the Virgin Mary mourning over the dead body of Christ. The biblical scenes on the north and south screens of the choir depict the life of Christ and the apparitions of Christ after the Resurrection. On the north side, the north rose window is one of the cathedral's original stained-glass panels; at the center is an image of Mary holding a young Jesus.
Down the stairs in front of the cathedral is the Crypte Archéologique,Notre-Dame's archaeological museum. It gives an "under the city" view of the area, with remains from previous churches that were built on this site, scale models charting the district's development, and artifacts dating from 2,000 years ago. The Musée de Notre-Dame,on the other hand, has little to interest the average visitor.
Reviewed by bachslunch from US on 11/9/08
A beautiful cathedral inside and out, with striking sculpture and stained glass, the latter including the famous Rose Windows. A must, Paris's finest church to visit.
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