Across from a pretty square on the border of two up-and-coming neighborhoods, this open, light-drenched spot, run by brothers Maxime and Romain Teschenko (the former a veteran of Inaki Aizpitarte's Chateaubriand and the latter Top Chef 2010) is one of Paris's better bistros. While the brothers adhere to a tried-and-true formula—meticulously sourced produce, natural wines, open kitchen—they've managed to make it very much their own. Dishes are small wonders of texture
and flavor, like velvety Basque pork with razor-thin slices of cauliflower, briny olives, and crunchy pumpkinseeds; or crisp-moist sea bass with spring-fresh asparagus and mint. A great choice for diners eager to experience what this scene's all about in a hip, off-the-beaten-path locale.