To really know Paris is to know her great boulangeries, a tradition in free fall since the advent of that notorious cricket bat, the industrial baguette. Thankfully there's an ever-growing group of bakers carrying the flame, literally. Véronique Mauclerc, one of the best, makes her breads, classic viennoiserie (croissants, turnovers, pain au chocolat), and savory tarts on the premises in a traditional wood-fired oven using only organic flour and natural ferments for leavening.
As if this weren't enough, her pastries are a triumph. The fine traditional Paris Brest—a slightly sweet, hazelnut cream–filled pâte à choux sprinkled with slivered almonds—sells out quickly, as do the excellent mini chocolate cakes and fruit strudels. Although out of the way, being two steps from the lovely Buttes Chaumont makes it picnic perfect. There's another branch on 11 rue Poncelet.
83 Rue de Crimée, 19e, Paris, 75019, France