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Chef Hiroki Yoshitake was schooled in the kitchens of famed innovators Pascal Barbot of Astrance and William Ledeuil of Ze Kitchen Galerie before striking out on his own. Dishes like miso-lacquered foie gras, served with toasted pain de mie, or sake-glazed suckling pig—perfectly crisp on the outside and melting inside—pair traditional Japanese and French ingredients to wondrous effect. Plates are artfully arranged with a sprinkling of piquant shiso leaves or jewel-like roasted vegetables to please the eye and the palate. The three-course, €48 lunch menu—it's prix fix only—offers a choice of fish or meat and finishes with Fukano Hirobu's stunning confections. Shoes stay on in the tranquil half-timbered dining room upstairs, but the vaulted room downstairs is totally traditional—and one of the loveliest in Paris.
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