It's no surprise that chef Sven Chartier, a veteran of famous produce-centric restaurants L'Arpege and Racines, would focus his restaurant around seasonal, locally sourced veggies, along with the freshest seafood and pedigreed meats. The luminous dining room, with a huge central skylight, pale wood, and industrial details, is as contemporary and devoid of ostentation as the food. Dishes tend to be fresh and minimally cooked, featuring unusual pairings of vegetables and
greens—tender baby scallops served with slivered radish, tiny watercress leaves, crisp raw mushrooms, and shallot; or filet of mackerel drizzled with arugula pesto, a tiny dollop of uni, a sprinkling of mustard seed and piquant purslane—that are sophisticated almost to the point of cerebral. Desserts are equally original, and a superb roster of natural wines insures that diners who care to broaden their horizons won't be disappointed. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday. Prix fix only.
17 rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 2e, Paris, 75002, France