Following a roster of superstar chefs in one of Paris's most spectacular dining rooms is no small feat, yet 31-year-old Christopher Hache steps up to the task with confidence and maturity, earning a Michelin star after less than a year at the helm. Hache's cooking is squarely haute cuisine, though he avoids preciousness in favor of more hearty dishes like Volaille "Galouise Blanche," a golden-hued filet of Landes hen, extravagantly laden with shaved white truffles alongside
fluffy tiny pasta in a white-truffle sauce, or a dish of succulent Breton langoustine with lightly caramelized fennel and a sauce laced with tart Japanese yuzu. Desserts are both luxe and homey, like Riz à l'Imperatrice, an exalted rice pudding with raspberry confit and star-anise ice cream, and his luscious take on the humble tarte tatin. Another good reason to indulge yourself with a visit here: the service is graciousness itself.