Spring

Spring Review

The private party atmosphere in this intimate, elegantly modern space may be exuberance at having finally snagged a table, but most likely it's chef Daniel Rose's inspired—often resplendent—cuisine. Though firmly rooted in technique, Rose sets himself the task of improvising two different menus each day, one for lunch and one for dinner, from whatever strikes his fancy that morning. His insistence on fresh, top-quality ingredients is evident in dishes that are both refined and deeply satisfying: you might have an updated parmentier with a velvety layer of deboned pig's foot topped with lemon-infused whipped potatoes or buttery venison with tart-sweet candied kumquat; for dessert, a sublime combo of whiskey-and-vanilla-infused pineapple, crunchy toasted coconut biscuits, and lime-zest-sprinkled vanilla ice cream. The 17th-century vaulted dining room is an intimate spot yet can accommodate larger groups. The €46 lunch menu provides a good introduction.