Cyril Bordarier blazed a path with this small bar à vins, which quickly became the ticket for hipsters seeking out exceptional, good-value natural wines with food to match. Nowadays you're as likely to be seated next to a table of American tourists or expats as a bunch of French wine aficionados. This is not so much due to the chic factor as to Bordarier's insistence on top-quality products. Wines are mostly organic, the charcuterie hails from top artisan producers, and
the variety of small dishes alongside a few hearty main courses works just as well for lunch on the fly as for a leisurely dinner. This is a popular spot, so reserve ahead.