This bistro epitomizes what makes Paris such an exciting culinary hub right now: a talented young chef serving inventive, market-driven food at an offbeat location. Chef Petter Nilsson began cooking in his native Sweden and honed his skills in Provence; both figure in the kind of dishes that have made this a foodie hot spot, where fish—often lightly cooked or smoked—and regional meats (like Pyrenees lamb) are featured. It's a set menu (one starter, one main, one dessert),
and whether it's a velvety spinach pesto in a spelt risotto or a silky purée of celeriac with grilled eel, veggies are never just sidekicks. The Art Deco dining room and old-style zinc bar are especially atmospheric at dinnertime when the lights are low; the three-course €19 lunch menu is a steal.