The unanointed might walk right by this modest storefront eatery without an inkling of the gastronomic mecca within. Decor takes second place to the impressive cuisine that the welcoming Roman chef Giovani Passerini—Rino to his friends—consistently offers. Dishes like tender mackerel ravioli alongside razor-thin slices of watermelon radish, briny bottarga, and a drizzle of bitter lemon aïoli, or lightly seared monkfish with tiny samplings of sea urchin and velvety
bone marrow served with a rich squid-ink sauce highlight what this restaurant is about: top-notch ingredients, original pairings, and a rare simplicity. With a reasonable four- or six-course dinner menu (€44, €61) and lunch menus of two or three courses (€23, €28)—there is no à la carte—and a small but informed wine list, what's not to love?