Thirty years ago Babette de Rozières, who grew up in Guadeloupe, used all her savings to open a tiny creole restaurant in Paris. Now she occupies one of the city's most prestigious dining rooms: the restaurant formerly known as Jamin, where Joël Robuchon once reigned. Babette isn't afraid to think big—she is also a star chef on French television—but her cooking has lost none of its soul, and reasonably priced set menus are available to sample it. Caribbean cooking relies on sunny ingredients prepared simply, and you'll find classics such as chayote squash filled with crabmeat, blaff (a lemony fish stew), and mutton colombo (a Caribbean curry) on the carte. Try to save room for an exotic dessert, perhaps sweet-potato mousse with berry coulis.
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