The red-checked tablecloths and jovial maître d'hôtel at this southwestern French bistro near the Ecole Militaire might seem like a tourist cliché—until you realize that the boisterous dining room is just as popular with food-loving locals and French politicians as it is with foreigners. The best way to start a meal here is with the "chariot" of starters, everything from lentil salad to ratatouille; just point to the ones you want. Classics among the main courses are duck confit with sautéed garlic potatoes, cassoulet, and game dishes in winter. Everything is hearty and delicious, if not especially refined—don't miss the gooey help-yourself chocolate mousse. Best value is the tradition gourmande set menu for EUR 41, which brings you the hors d'oeuvres spread, a main course, three desserts (you can try them all), and coffee.
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