Great bistro food is not so hard to find in Paris, but only rarely does it come in a comfortable setting. At L'Epigramme, the striped orange-and-yellow chairs are softly padded, there's space between you and your neighbors, and a big glass pane lets in plenty of light from the courtyard. Service from Stéphane Marcouzzi's staff is also worthy of a much more expensive restaurant; he was maître d'hôtel at Le Cap Vernet before opening this bistro with Aymeric Kräml. The chef has an almost magical touch with meat: try his stuffed suckling pig with turnip choucroute, or seared slices of pink lamb with root vegetables in a glossy reduced sauce. In winter, the eleborate game dish lièvre à la royale (hare stuffed with goose or duck liver and cooked in wine) sometimes makes an appearance. Desserts are not quite as inspired, so try to take a peek at the plates coming out of the kitchen before making your choice.
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